Japanese Maples

Japanese maples (Acer palmatum) are among the most beautiful and useful small trees. They have lovely, fine-textured foliage, which is colorful in spring and fall, and depending on variety, sometimes all summer long. When properly pruned, their artistic branching pattern and colorful bark greatly enhance their elegant character. Even their tiny flowers and unusual winged seedpods make a statement. The diminutive size of Japanese maples (few get over 20 feet high) makes them ideal for small gardens, containers and as patio or shade trees.

There are many types and varieties of Japanese maples to choose from. Most common are seedling-grown trees. These make beautiful specimens and tend to be tougher and more heat and sun tolerant than many selected varieties. Fall color and branching habits can vary, so autumn is a good time to shop so you can see what you'll get.

Purple-leafed varieties, such 'Atropurpureum,' 'Bloodgood' and 'Oshio Beni' produce bright red new leaves in spring that maintain a red to reddish green color throughout summer before turning yellow, orange or red in fall. There are also many laceleaf or cutleaf varieties of Japanese maples. These have very finely cut leaves and often dramatically weeping habits. 'Dissectum' is weeping and wide-spreading to about 6 feet high and twice as wide. It has smooth green bark and green foliage that turns yellow in fall. 'Waterfall' is similar. 'Seiryu' has even finer cut leaves but is taller and more upright. Cutleaf varieties with reddish foliage all summer include 'Ornatum,' 'Tamukeyama' and 'Red Dragon.'

If you want spectacular bark, try 'Sango Kaku.' It is a distinctly upright tree with red bark in winter and yellow fall color.

Japanese maples grow best in USDA zones 6-9. They prefer well-drained, acidic soil and a location protected from the hottest afternoon sun. In cool summer areas they can take full sun but in the hot, dry southwest are subject to leaf burn even in partial shade. Cutleaf varieties in particular are not well adapted to areas with hot, dry summers.

In many areas, fall is an ideal time to plant Japanese maples. Where the soil has already frozen, wait until spring. To protect your trees from insects, use Bayer Advanced™ Tree & Shrub Insect Control Concentrate. One application applied to the roots protects trees for up to 12 months.

Ken's Layered Bulb Planting for Concentrated Color

Ken Kukorowski, head of Product Innovations at Bayer Advanced, shares a bulb-planting technique that's been passed down through his family of gardeners. It's a simple layering process that gives three times the color of traditional bulb-planting methods.

Start by digging a 6-inch hole with a trowel or bulb-planting tool. Set a late-blooming tulip bulb in the hole and cover with 2 inches of soil. Then add a daffodil bulb and enough soil to cover the top. Finally, add a crocus bulb and fill in the hole. As you add the bulbs, offset them a bit so the tips aren’t directly below the bulb on top. To protect bulbs from snails and slugs, use Bayer Advanced™ Dual Action Snail and Slug Killer Bait Granules, which can be used around pets and wildlife.

In the spring, the crocus will bloom first, followed by the daffodils then by the tulips. Three times the flowers from one hole.

For more tips on bulb planting, including which bulbs are best for naturalizing and which ones will grow in the shade, visit the Bulbs for Shady Gardens article.

Fall Care for Young Trees

Fall is a good time to repot houseplants. Fresh soil and room for new root growth will help keep plants healthy through winter.

What should you consider when choosing a new container? There are several important things. Naturally, a new pot should be attractive, highlighting the plant or the surroundings. But you should also consider size, color and the material the pot is made of. These factors influence how easy the container is to move and how often the plant needs to be watered.

If you are potting up a household or other plant that has gotten root bound, the new pot should be at least 2 to 4 inches larger in diameter. That's enough space for new root growth without making the pot a great deal heavier. In general, it's best to move up gradually in pot size.

Also consider the weight and porosity of the pot. Lightweight plastic pots will be easier to move than heavier ceramic or terra cotta pots. Terra cotta pots are also porous, so water evaporates through the sides. While this is good for aerating the soil, it causes the pot to dry out faster than plastic or ceramic pots. Dark-colored pots situated in sunny spots also warm up and dry out faster than light-colored ones.

To repot houseplants, gently remove the plant from the existing pot. This will probably be easiest if you water the plant several days before transplanting so the soil is moist. To remove smaller plants from the pot, place your hand over the top so you can catch the root ball. Tip the entire plant upside down and tap the rim of the pot on a hard surface until the root ball releases. With larger pots, you may have to run an old knife around the edges before the root ball can be gently pulled out. If the plant still won't come out of a clay or ceramic pot, you may have to break the pot. To do so, place it in a bag or wrap it in an old sheet. Tap the pot with a hammer until it breaks.

Place enough potting soil in the bottom of the new pot so the top of the root ball is at least an inch below the rim. For a lightweight potting soil that includes a premium timed-release fertilizer, moisture control and four months of insect protection, use Bayer Advanced™ All-In-One Potting Mix Potting Mix (product discontinued). Put the plant in the pot and fill around the edges with potting soil. Water well. If necessary, add more soil.

Dividing Perennials

Over time many perennials, including Shasta daisies, daylilies and dianthus, become overcrowded, open in the center and sparse blooming. That's when they needed to be divided. Dividing perennials not only improves plant health and vigor, it gives you more plants to spread around in your own garden or give to friends.

Perennials can be divided in spring or fall. If you live in cold winter areas where the ground freezes, it's best to wait until spring. Before dividing, cut back plants to about 6 inches above the ground and make sure the soil is moist. Using a shovel, dig around the outside of the plant and lift it out of the ground. Separate small sections of the rootball, making sure you get plenty of roots with each section. You may be able to do this with your hands, but with some plants it takes an old knife or the blade of the shovel to cut the rootball. Replant the new sections and water well.