Few herbs are as versatile and beloved as garlic. It has been grown since ancient times and is a key ingredient in diverse cuisines from Italy to China to Mexico and back again. Garlic is easy to grow as long as you plant it at the right time of year. In mild-winter areas where the ground doesn't freeze, garlic is best planted in fall and harvested in early summer. In colder areas, plant in early spring for late-summer harvest.

You may think that "garlic is garlic," but there are actually many varieties. Nurseries and mail-order catalogs offer selections with names like 'Inchellium Red,' 'Chet's Italian Red,' 'Susanville' and 'Chinese Purple.' Varieties vary in flavor, size and color, and perform differently under varying climate conditions. Experiment with different varieties to see which ones do best for you. Elephant garlic is actually more closely related to leeks. It produces huge bulbs with mild flavor.

Plant garlic in full sun and well-drained soil. Purchase disease-free cloves (often called sets) from nurseries or mail-order catalogs. Plant them about 1 inch deep and 3 to 4 inches apart with the pointed side up. Leave 12 to 15 inches between rows. Fertilize the planting bed with Bayer Advanced™ Triple Action All Purpose Plant Food Granules and water thoroughly.

Garlic is ready to harvest when the tops start to dry out and fall over. Gently lift the bulbs with a spading fork and allow them to air dry (if its very hot move the bulbs to a shady spot to dry). When dry, cut off most of the tops and store in a cool, dry spot out of direct sun.

Fall is a good time to repot houseplants. Fresh soil and room for new root growth will help keep plants healthy through winter.

What should you consider when choosing a new container? There are several important things. Naturally, a new pot should be attractive, highlighting the plant or the surroundings. But you should also consider size, color and the material the pot is made of. These factors influence how easy the container is to move and how often the plant needs to be watered.

If you are potting up a household or other plant that has gotten root bound, the new pot should be at least 2 to 4 inches larger in diameter. That's enough space for new root growth without making the pot a great deal heavier. In general, it's best to move up gradually in pot size.

Also consider the weight and porosity of the pot. Lightweight plastic pots will be easier to move than heavier ceramic or terra cotta pots. Terra cotta pots are also porous, so water evaporates through the sides. While this is good for aerating the soil, it causes the pot to dry out faster than plastic or ceramic pots. Dark-colored pots situated in sunny spots also warm up and dry out faster than light-colored ones.

To repot houseplants, gently remove the plant from the existing pot. This will probably be easiest if you water the plant several days before transplanting so the soil is moist. To remove smaller plants from the pot, place your hand over the top so you can catch the root ball. Tip the entire plant upside down and tap the rim of the pot on a hard surface until the root ball releases. With larger pots, you may have to run an old knife around the edges before the root ball can be gently pulled out. If the plant still won't come out of a clay or ceramic pot, you may have to break the pot. To do so, place it in a bag or wrap it in an old sheet. Tap the pot with a hammer until it breaks.

Place enough potting soil in the bottom of the new pot so the top of the root ball is at least an inch below the rim. For a lightweight potting soil that includes a premium timed-release fertilizer, moisture control and four months of insect protection, use Bayer Advanced™ All-In-One Potting Mix Potting Mix (product discontinued). Put the plant in the pot and fill around the edges with potting soil. Water well. If necessary, add more soil.

Since it is planting season, and we're talking trees, it's a good time to review planting procedures. Here are the basics:

Dig a hole slightly less deep (about an inch) than the depth of the rootball and at least twice as wide. Make the bottom flat and the sides rough, not smooth.

Remove the tree from the container by setting it on its side and gently pulling on the lower trunk. If the rootball doesn't slide out easily, cut the pot off with shears.

Set the tree in the bottom of the hole, making sure the top of the rootball sits slightly above the surrounding soil level.

Fill in around the rootball with the original soil, tamping gently as you fill in. If your soil is very sandy or clayey, amend it by blending in organic matter (add about a third by volume), such as compost, before filling the hole.

Build a 4- to 6-inch-high soil berm around the tree. This is your watering basin, and it should be just a bit wider than the top of the hole.

Fill the basin with water and let it drain. Repeat the process at least two more times.

Remove stakes that are tied tightly to the trunk. If tree cannot stand on its own, use a two-stake method of support, placing one stake on each side of the tree (outside the rootball). Secure the tree loosely between the two stakes using flexible tie. The tree should be able to move slightly in the wind.

Mulch and water frequently, making sure not to let the trees rootball dry out. To protect newly planted trees from insects, use Bayer Advanced™ Tree & Shrub Insect Control Concentrate. One application to the roots (no spraying necessary) will protect trees for up to 12 months.